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LF Automated Lighting Correction For Whole Sets
I go out shooting events, weddings, cars, etc. all the time - and I keep coming home with a whole set of photos that need different amounts of lighting correction - some are spot on, others are a little off, and a few are a good bit off. I can control lighting with something like product photos, but when things move a lot and lighting gets brighter and darker, there isn't much you can do but get the best shot you can that fast. I've identified that my biggest time sink is not what I would do to every photo in post, but fixing the few that are over/under lighted enough to look 'off' from the rest of the set. It's those ugly ducklings that I need a faster way to fix. It isn't bad when you have a set of 15 photos and 4 to correct every once in a while - but I often have 300 photos and 50 to correct every other day - definitely enough to look for an automated solution as opposed to correcting each one by hand. I'm looking for a software that would correct the exposure/lighting on individual photos as necessary within a larger set of photos so that the entire set winds up normalized automatically. I want a software that lets you select a whole folder or group of images, then it finds the most normal or average lighting conditions in the set (or lets you pick one to match), and adjusts each photo individually by different amounts so that the final product is your whole group of photos that you started with, but now the dark ones are light, and the light ones come down - without the fuss of correcting them all by hand one at a time. I don't want the same amount of fill light or highlight reduction on every photo (I could do that in Bridge/RAW) - the point is that the really dark ones need to get a lot brighter, the barely dark ones need to get barely brighter, the most normal/average ones need to stay the same, the really bright ones need to get a lot darker, and the barely bright ones need to get barely darker. Does this make sense? You guys have always been very helpful, and I've learned a lot of what I know from this community! Thank you so much in advance for your help! ![]() P.S. - I'm also open to any automated or efficient workflow suggestions as an editer or retoucher (or photographer even). I've figured out that I love photography, but editing or retouching by hand is a real drag unless I'm being paid for a single high-end retouch. I don't like to let ANY photo out unedited, and I won't release a set without editing them all - so I'm trying to be able to get my editing fast enough that I can go shoot 1000 photos at a night club one night, come home, run a few processes, and have everything edited good enough to post the next day. I'd like to be able to get my photos out quickly and without lighting problems. I definitely add/remove elements by hand, and do high-end skin retouching and liquify by hand - but lighting and color can definitely be automated... Aug 12 16 02:22 pm Link I want a software that lets you select a whole folder or group of images, then it finds the most normal or average lighting conditions in the set (or lets you pick one to match), and adjusts each photo individually by different amounts so that the final product is your whole group of photos that you started with, but now the dark ones are light, and the light ones come down - without the fuss of correcting them all by hand one at a time. Define what you mean by the darkness/lightness of an image - I doubt it's anything as simple as the average luminance. At the end of the day you have the problem that the software doesn't know whether it is looking at a white wall in dim light or a black wall in bright light. Aug 12 16 04:45 pm Link What you describe is impossible without intelligent control of the process. Software cannot see and understand light. All it knows is 0 and 1. It has no way to decide when a photo is visually pleasing to a particular viewer. So if you don't have time to edit your photos, it seems the only solution is to outsource that part. Aug 12 16 11:10 pm Link anchev wrote: Completely wrong. Modern cameras recognize generic and even individual faces, and metering algorithms like Nikon SRS use image recognition for metering - they look for objects they can recognize and then use them to set exposure. (Eg they look for face, run a heuristic to decide whether it is Asian/Caucausian or a darker skin tone, and include that knowledge in their exposure calculations.) That computers are at their base level binary is irrelevant as your brain being based electrochemical processes; they're Turing complete systems. It has no way to decide when a photo is visually pleasing to a particular viewer. There is a big gap between art criticism and exposure control... Aug 13 16 07:44 am Link My previous post was an answer to the OP. Aug 13 16 09:24 am Link anchev wrote: Yes, I know. I was correcting it so you don't spread misinformation. And also because switching to a camera with a more sophisticated exposure system might be the answer to the OP's problems. I don't know if the OP is using flash and how well SRS in high-end Nikons works with it, but for natural light it seems very impressive. Aug 13 16 10:18 am Link thiswayup wrote: Thank you so much. I wasn't aware you are the ultimate source of correct information on this website. Aug 13 16 12:56 pm Link thiswayup wrote: Is this true, or are you lying again to feel important, like you did when you claimed Sean Archer didn't like his Canon 6D and he sold it? Even though Sean Archer himself denies that's true, told me personally, and in fact, continues to shoot with it to this day. Aug 13 16 01:53 pm Link DespayreFX wrote: This is a stupid thing for you to write. If Archer did tell you that (and hey, you might be a liar) someone with a brain would consider that I might have made an honest mistake, ***based on what people told me and the fact that he is now shooting with an EM1***, hmm??? (And I have to point out that someone with a brain would wonder if Archer told you that to keep the possibility of Canon sponsorship open, given that he is SHOOTING with the EM1! Which is a strange thing to do if you have a fullframe camera you supposedly like. Especially as he seems to be a single focal length man and uses natural light, so the 6D set-up wouldn't exactly be hard to move around... Canon and Nikon ambassadorships are hugely lucrative; I don't think anyone sensible would expect him to public discuss the 6D's demonstrably awful focus accuracy away from the centre point.) Aug 13 16 02:13 pm Link thiswayup wrote: Bahaha! Well, except for a couple of things, first of all, I pointed out in the thread that he had recently posted to 500px with images from the 6D, but you kept right on shooting your mouth off, in fact, more aggressively after that point... and then I posted a screencap of Sean answering the question, and the fact that he has no problem with the focusing system that you disliked so much. You didn't make a mistake, re-read the thread if you need to. You stated it as fact, multiple times, when it clearly wasn't, and had already been pointed out to you as fact, that you were wrong. So I guess, as you say, one of us is certainly a liar. You and I both *know* who that is, I'll leave the thread here so others can make up their own mind. And in the meantime, maybe you should get your information from somewhere better than "what people told me", although, it's good enough for Trump as a source, so I can see how you'd be easily fooled by it too... that's a powerful source you have there for 3 pages of discussion about something you knew nothing about but continued to malign despite the reality of the situation being the exact opposite... Aug 13 16 02:37 pm Link DespayreFX wrote: Actually its LensRentals that "dislikes" it. Except they don't - not being idiot fanbois, they noted it's good for low light (event shooting) but bad for high accuracy (portrait work.) Here's a link to the last page of the thread where you can read Sean's words for yourself, and so can everyone else. Again, it seems idiotic to me to expect Archer to offend a sponsor that anyone in his position would be courting. I accept that to someone with sufficiently lower intelligence that this problem won't be comprehensible, however. Aug 13 16 02:54 pm Link thiswayup wrote: I just asked if you were lying again, why so defensive? Aug 13 16 02:58 pm Link DNFTT Aug 13 16 03:31 pm Link Im wondering if you have Lightroom... or if you are willing to spend $10 bucks a month for the newest versions of Lightroom and Photoshop Cloud from Adobe. When im doing a couple hundred shots.... I use lightroom first...then maybe Photoshop for the more complicated retouch issues. I use lightroom to import all of the images and to remember where they are all located. Then I like to look at a lightbox view of all the images to see what ive got. Then I go into sorting and ranking my images by assigning a 1 to the images I dont want... 3 for the average images and 4's and 5s for the best images that are definitely keepers. After they are ranked...then I can say to Lightroom (or possibly Bridge too)...show me all the images ranked 4 and 5. From there I notice that there are some images in there that might be a bit darker than I like. So, I will pick out one image as an example and use the exposure slider... and the highlight slider... and the shadow and black sliders... and make the image become what I think the image should be. So now the image looks pretty good with those adjustments!!! THEN, I select the 14 other images that were similarly darker, or more saturated, or more cooler, or more washed out.... AND THEN I say to Lightroom... apply this same correction factor to these other images for me. I click 2 buttons and then all 15 images all now look nice and clean and balanced like I want them to. I use this "apply correction to X images" very often to get all my to be pretty close to perfect. The images that I really love... or that I want to really work on...can be sent to Photoshop...and then when im done doing my magic there...I save the images right back into my lightroom folder...and I end up with the original image and the enhanced image right next to each other... NICE! Dont know if this fits for you...and what you want to do. Wish you the best of Luck however. Aug 13 16 03:33 pm Link ![]() thiswayup wrote: thiswayup wrote: thiswayup wrote: 6 months is long enough time for you to have read the site rules. Aug 13 16 06:49 pm Link @Williams Media: Back to your question: Maybe there is a Lightroom-Plugin that does what you want. In theory(!) it is indeed possible to auto-adjust exposure (independent of what some people here write about cameras being stupid and not recognising white walls or black walls etc...). It is true: Camera lightmeters are 'stupid', BUT: If your lighting doesn't change (i.e. no TTL flash, daylight brightness stays the same), it is perfectly possible to adjust your exposure in Lightroom "by the numbers" (which is what a plugin could do, if someone's written such a plugin). As long as you have a reference image. You underexpose for a stop? Well, in Lightroom you overexpose by a stop. (Similar to when on the shoot-day you take a meter-reading and then stick to manual mode, with a given aperture/shutterspeed combo). Sep 05 16 05:17 pm Link @Williams Media: I have to agree that it would be difficult to find an automated solution to your problem. As an aside, if I got the assignment to develop such a beast, I'd probably start with the kind of algorithms used in early autofocus systems that maximize contrast and then have the brightness adjusted. But I don't think I've seen an ad for such a product. A partial solution to your problem might be to find a group of images that need to be adjusted about the same, then correct one of them. Then select the rest of the group and tell the software to apply the corrections to the rest of the group. Not a fix, but maybe it will speed things up a bit. The other thing I'd do is spend some time trying to figure why your lighting is so inconsistent - that could be very productive if you could fix that. Oct 03 16 12:45 pm Link The closest thing I can think of is the "match total exposure" feature in Lightroom. It isn't perfect, but ideally you'd set the exposure correction on one image and it will attempt to match the other images to that. So, the first image might require a .5 exposure adjustment, while others get a .35, .67, 1, or whatever it takes to visually match the level of exposure. Oct 05 16 08:38 pm Link Mike Yamin wrote: This is exactly what the OP needs, I have used it in batch of photos with similar setups and works quite well. Oct 07 16 06:17 am Link HV images wrote: In Nikon View NX you can do something similar. I took the settings from one photo and then clicked them on each image--quite fast-but it tooks a while for the settings to process. Oct 07 16 06:16 pm Link |