Forums > General Industry > Ring vs Strobe vs Continuous light and shadows

Photographer

Tigerkws Photography

Posts: 19

Sacramento, California, US

I was looking for suggestions on still photography of people for portraits as far as lighting.  I have used 3 - 4 strobes.  Some have told me about Alien Bees, I am looking for quality not cheap.  I dont know anything about continuous lighting.   I have  heard and some ring flashes from alien bee which is new but probably more interested in the ones from hensel or lumedyne. 

Biggest problem is shadows, which is probably due to my inexperience of knowing where to position strobes, which is what I currently use.  If strobes are the way to go, which ones and how many are needed, how many watts per second?

For portable stuff, I use a quantum t5d.

Jan 20 07 02:43 pm Link

Photographer

Star

Posts: 17966

Los Angeles, California, US

4 lightbars from broncolor (about 3,000 each) and a 12 foot silk backlit with another Broncolor strobe and a total of 3 A-4 packs...
https://img5.modelmayhem.com/070119/15/45b12c56b8317.jpg

2 lightbars, no backlight

https://img5.modelmayhem.com/070117/23/45aefde4676d2.jpg


but than this photo was one alien bee outside no diffusion

https://img4.modelmayhem.com/060920/11/45116d117fddf.jpg

I guess what I am saying is that concentrate on technique with the simpliest first, don't worry about the cost of your lights

Jan 20 07 02:49 pm Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

Tigerkws Photography wrote:
I was looking for suggestions on still photography of people for portraits as far as lighting.  I have used 3 - 4 strobes.  Some have told me about Alien Bees, I am looking for quality not cheap.  I dont know anything about continuous lighting.   I have  heard and some ring flashes from alien bee which is new but probably more interested in the ones from hensel or lumedyne. 

Biggest problem is shadows, which is probably due to my inexperience of knowing where to position strobes, which is what I currently use.  If strobes are the way to go, which ones and how many are needed, how many watts per second?

For portable stuff, I use a quantum t5d.

If your not worried about price I would say broncolor or Profoto 7a/b series at least three packs and 5 heads.  then you start on modifiers and there are plenty from both.

If thats too high look at Speedotron Blackline or profoto acute systems, now 2 packs are the minimum three are better, less powerfull and smaller, and again I would say at least 5 heads.  Then start on modifiers.

Softboxes, umbrellas, reflectors to start, strip domes/boxes grids, snoots, octobank/box, beautydish, ringflash, fresnels, barndoors and lots of grids on everthing for control. 

As for continous lights they are either very hot and bright but still not very bright for a higher aperature, or cool and not very bright like kino flos which are great but allow for small depth of field or higher iso. 

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.PhotographersPortfolio.com

Jan 20 07 02:58 pm Link

Photographer

Looknsee Photography

Posts: 26342

Portland, Oregon, US

Modifying & positioning lights in central to artistic studio photography. 

I'd start with a flexible setup.  I'm partial to strobes, myself.  I can use up to four heads (although I usually get by with three).  I also have soft boxes that range in size from small (12" x 18") to large (4' x 6') -- I also use grids to "focus" the strobe light to a soft spot.  I have one set of barn doors for one head.  I never use my umbrellas -- I prefer the soft boxes instead.

I have a variety of stands, ranging in a heavy duty stand that can go up to 10' to tiny stands that are essentially the same as putting the strobe heads on the floor.  I have only one boom arm, and that's usually enough.

(I won't talk here about props, backgrounds, furniture, etc.).

I am still using my ~15 year old Speedtron brown line unit, but I might recommend a more advanced setup -- one where you can control the output of each strobe head.  Still, I get by.  (See my site at http://www.looknseephoto.com).

Reasons why I prefer strobes to continuous light:
   >>>  Strobes freeze action -- the flash duration is about 1/3000th of a second.
   >>>  Strobes are close to daylight color balanced.
   >>>  Strobes are bright, meaning that you are using the sharpest parts of your
          lenses.
   >>>  Strobes don't generate a lot of heat.

I just got some Pocket Wizards, so that I don't need a wire from my camera to my strobe unit and so that my camera is protected from any voltage irregularities.

Advantages to continuous light:  what you see is what you get.

Comment about ring light:  Ring lights provide an interesting effect, but it is a uni-tasker.  A ring light is the last thing I'd invest in.

Jan 20 07 02:59 pm Link

Photographer

TRPn Pics

Posts: 10435

Silver Springs Shores, Florida, US

They may be less expensive, but the Alien Bee's are as good as any other comparable system. The reviews are all over the web about the Alien Bee's system. Versatility is a plus when you include the Vagabond power system too.

Not that you were looking for one but good luck finding a bad review on them. For the money, you can't go wrong.

As for rignlight vs softbox or other setups, I have yet to use a ringlight system, so I'm not qualified to remark on that system.

As far as lighting setups and shadows, trial an error.

Jan 20 07 03:10 pm Link

Photographer

4C 41 42

Posts: 11093

Nashville, Tennessee, US

Tigerkws Photography wrote:
Biggest problem is shadows...

Then you need to worry about technique before you start sweating about what equipment to buy.

Lots of good books on lighting out there.  Pick up a couple.

Jan 20 07 03:17 pm Link

Photographer

Jeffrey Truitt

Posts: 17

San Antonio, Texas, US

With practice you can get the same results with strobe or continous. I learned with continous lighting and natural light. I still find myself shooting with just the modeling lamps and cool continous lights some of the time. I just find I get the results I want faster and without much work. Again that is because of the way I learned to shoot. A very slow shutter and higher ISO is second nature to me but would drive other photographers crazy. Buy good quality and they will last a long time.

Jan 20 07 03:53 pm Link